Garment Construction: Wide-Leg Trousers

Fundamentals of Pattern Adaptation for Flowing Trousers

Modifying existing trouser patterns, or drafting new patterns, to achieve the characteristic silhouette. This includes considerations for increased width in the leg from hip to hem, maintaining a smooth waistline, and appropriate crotch curve adjustments for comfort and fit.

Fabric Selection for Drape and Movement

Choosing fabrics with suitable drape and weight is critical. Lightweight woven materials like rayon challis, crepe de chine, linen blends, and some types of silk are frequently employed. Knits may also be appropriate depending on the desired outcome.

Seam Construction Techniques

Understanding standard seam allowances and construction methods is essential. Commonly used techniques include straight stitching for side seams and inseams, serging or zig-zag stitching for seam finishing to prevent fraying, and appropriate pressing techniques for a professional finish. Considerations should be given to seam strength and durability based on fabric choice and expected wear.

Waistband Options and Application

Various waistband treatments are available, including elastic waistbands (fully encased or partially exposed), faced waistbands, and contoured waistbands. Each option offers a different level of comfort, structure, and aesthetic appeal. Accurate measurement and precise application are important for a well-fitting garment.

Hemming and Finishing

Accurate and consistent hemming is crucial for achieving the desired length and overall appearance. Blind hems, rolled hems, and machine-stitched hems are common choices. Pressing the hem properly will complete the garment.

Fitting and Alterations

Understanding basic fitting principles is beneficial, especially when working with unconventional garment shapes. Assessing the fit at the waist, hips, and crotch area allows for adjustments to pattern or garment before final construction. Common alterations include adjusting the waist size, shortening or lengthening the legs, and modifying the crotch curve.